Chocosphere

The first shipment of chocolate to Europe came from Oaxaca, Mexico in 1502. Five centuries later, you can find the best European chocolates at Chocosphere, a small company in Portland, Oregon. They carry my favorites: Michel Cluizel, Callebaut, and Valrhona. Michel Cluizel has the distinction of creating the milk chocolate bar with the highest cocoa content: 50%. (Most milk chocolate bars contain around 33%.)

I must admit, I am anxiously counting the days until November 15, when The Chocolate Show returns to New York! Last year I wandered from vendor to vendor in a chocolate-addled stupor, munching on warm Valrhona orange-chocolate brownies and Cemoi truffles and sipping Jacques Torres spicy cocoa and Vermeer Dutch Chocolate liqueur. But until November, I will be satisfied with Chocosphere.

Gramercy Tavern

In the news yesterday, I read that a group of New Yorkers (who else) is suing McDonald's, claiming that they became addicted to the food. Meanwhile, the food at Gramercy Tavern is so addictive that I fear this restaurant will fall victim to a similar lawsuit. (Incidentally, Gramercy Tavern's pastry chef is resigning in order to accept a position at Pret, the sandwich chain partly owned by McDonald's. Judging from the addictive nature of the pastries at Gramercy Tavern, she will be a good fit for her new job.)

The overarching feeling at Gramercy Tavern is one of warmth and a motherly attention to detail. Baskets of bright sunflowers greeted us at the front door, and when we were about to leave, our waiter arrived with individually-wrapped complementary coffee cakes. Now let me tell you about what happened in between.

Taking in the rustic, yet elegant ambience of the mahogany-accented dining room, we were pleased to notice that the zaftig couple next to us hadn’t left a molecule on their plate (always a good sign).

An amuse-bouche of pasta salad with a crispy parmesan tuile was duly inhaled by us. Then it was time for appetizers: hamachi with lemon vinaigrette and roasted beets, and spice-roasted lobster with green tomato chutney and bay leaf. The hamachi was four flavorful hunks of yellowtail sashimi garnished with lemon and fringed by a salad of microgreens, dill, and beets. The lobster was spicy and sweet.

My companion ordered the sirloin with roasted mushrooms, bacon and cranberry beans, which arrived looking like a free-form sculpture of a rose, with the red strips of meat aligned in a circular pattern. After munching on the crispy rectangle of salmon skin that topped my meal, I savored my two pieces of salt-baked salmon with chanterelle mushrooms and tender sugar-snap peas.

Not one scrap left of all that. Now it was time to sample from the large cheese menu. I should have taken a page from the zaftig couple’s book and allowed Mike, our astonishingly knowledgeable waiter, to choose our cheese! He arrived at the couple’s table with a large wooden block covered with wedges of about 20 kinds of cheese and lovingly described his favorites.

Notwithstanding our lack of his expertise, we still did well in the cheese department. Mike nodded approvingly as I decided on a Sottocenere al Tartufo (mild, sweet raw cow-milk cheese with truffles). I supplemented the Sottocenere with a Canestrato (salty, firm sheep-milk cheese akin to Romano) and a Humboldt Fog aged goat cheese. The cheese arrived with a plate of breads which we were too full to eat (shame on us!).

Although we were full by now, there was no way we were going to skip dessert. How were we to know that one dessert would become four?

A beaming waiter arrived with a dessert amuse-bouche: small dishes of silken panna cotta under a film of red wine gelee, topped with strawberry sorbet. Although I was disappointed to discover that the warm chocolate soufflé with black mint ice cream had just disappeared from the menu, I was placated with a warm chocolate tart served in an art deco configuration with a small chocolate malted and chocolate sorbet. My companion was very happy with his chocolate caramel tart with caramel ice cream. I decided that I could not pass up the special press-pot coffee roasted with cacao nibs and spices… truly some of the best coffee I've ever experienced!

We were about to explode when a plate of chocolate hazelnut and lemon meringue petit fours arrived. Yes, we ate the entire contents of the plate. Now we were beginning to feel like the protagonist in that Monty Python skit…

…when the aforementioned coffee cakes arrived. We had to draw the line somewhere, so I will be eating the coffee cake today: after I go to the gym!

Gramercy Tavern: 42 E. 20th St. (212) 477-0777.

Just Rugelach

I was trying to save my appetite for tonight’s dinner at Gramercy Tavern (more about that later) when I spotted the Just Rugelach tent at the Bowling Green Farmer’s Market. As if by some strange force I was sucked into the tent, only able to escape after three kinds of rugelach had been deposited into my bag (apricot, raspberry and chocolate). Mmmm! Margaret Palca is going to have a run for her money! The flaky, buttery exteriors of these rugelach are a perfect foil for the dense, intensely sweet fillings. And the name of this business is misleading; it’s not “just” rugelach that’s the attraction here. It’s apricot soda bread, cornmeal raisin biscotti, blueberry babka…the list goes on and on. The customer ahead of me was having a very difficult time deciding what she wanted, so I had ample chance to make a mental catalogue of the offerings!

Just Rugelach: (212) 244-1256.

Bistro St. Mark's (Closed as of 2005)

We needed comfort tonight. I had a raging sore throat and my friend missed her niece, who was away at summer camp. Jessica, the bartender, supplied my friend with a complementary glass of Pinot Grigio, and Paula, our waitress, brought over a hot toddy for me. Thus soothed, we attempted to make some difficult choices. Shell steak with garlic butter? Thyme-seared tuna with soy-ginger sauce?

We decided to begin with the goat cheese salad with grape tomatoes. Cool oval slices of tart goat cheese topped a bed of greens lightly tossed with vinaigrette. The sweet tomatoes again made their appearance in the caramelized scallop dish I ordered. Browned scallops framed a mound of linguine in a subtle tomato coriander sauce with shiitake mushrooms and garlic cloves. Although I enjoyed my meal, my fork found its way over to my friend's plate and had difficulty returning to my own. My friend had the monkfish medallions in a sauce of dense creamed spinach punctuated by sweet nuggets of fresh corn. The accompanying plate of mashed potatoes seemed almost superfluous.

Dessert was a slightly easier decision, because I saw the words "warm" and "chocolate" in the same description. The popular chocolate cake with a molten center arrived with a side of pistachio ice cream which I ignored, proceeding to deflate the cake to watch the gooey melted fudge pour out. I skillfully emptied the cake of its contents, having much practice in this endeavor.

Sore throats heal, nieces come back from summer camp, and warm chocolate cake is eternal.

Bistro St. Mark's: 76 St. Mark's Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 857-8600.

Salli's Sweet Tooth

Having finished the last chocolate éclair from Payard, I set about exploring the famed sweet shops of Columbia Heights, Brooklyn. Once you cross the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, you will find quite a few goodies in this rapidly transitioning neighborhood.

If you are disappointed with the famed Junior's (as I am), you will set upon Helen's Fabulous Cheesecake (Note: Closed as of Dec. 2004) like a pack of wolves. I bought a thick slice of sweet, buttery caramel cheesecake with a graham cracker crust. Also on display were several kinds of fresh-baked scones in flavors like chocolate hazelnut. It should be noted that Alma, the nearby Mexican restaurant, lists Helen's coconut cheesecake on the menu.

I remembered seeing a van emblazoned with the logo Margaret Palca Bakes, and I decided to follow the driver to his lair on Columbia Street. Margaret Palca Bakes is a small, unassuming bakery/deli across from a used-car lot, which bills itself as baking the best cinnamon rugelach in New York. They also do a mean raspberry brownie and chocolate-chip coconut bar! The cashier and I fell into a discussion about apartments in the area, and he mourned the astronomical rise in rents. I nodded sympathetically, but I thought to myself: Doesn't he realize that people want to live right next to his raspberry brownies?

As usual, Ferdinando's Italian Restaurant was closed, so I crossed the bridge to Cobble Hill and stopped off at Mazzola Bakery. Today's items on the agenda were sfogliatelli; flaky pastries filled with cream and nuggets of candied orange peel, and hazelnut biscotti. The biscotti at Mazzola are not formed in the traditional dipping shape, but they are far superior to the cakey spears you find at most cafés!

Helen's Fabulous Cheesecake: 126 Union St., Brooklyn. Margaret Palca Bakes: 193 Columbia St., Brooklyn. (718) 802-9771. Mazzola Bakery: 192 Union St., Brooklyn. (718) 643-1719.

My Kingdom for a Brie Sandwich

On July 14, 1789, crowds of Parisians captured the Bastille. On July 14, 2002, crowds of hungry New Yorkers captured East 60th St.!

I was taking a walk on the Upper East Side this morning, when purely by chance, I spied the arc of red, white, and blue balloons that advertises a Bastille Day street fair. Fortunately, I arrived early, before the hot sun had a chance to melt the pastries.

If you are a frequent visitor to New York City street fairs, then you will be familiar with the sugary "fruit" shakes, sodden Hershey syrup crepes, and Potato Kings that often mar them. Interspersed among these scourges today were some of the finest French restaurants and bakeries, serving their wares for just a few dollars.

Payard Pâtisserie offered éclairs filled with either coffee or chocolate pastry cream, fresh peach tarts, and chocolate-covered marzipan confections topped with pine nuts. I also bought a cookie that was so chocolatey it was almost black. "It's good for you, too," smiled the cashier. "You've got to be kidding," I said, then noticed that the cookies were advertised as being butterless and flourless. When I asked how on earth they could be so moist, the cashier replied, "Egg whites." All the better to eat another!

I surveyed the other vendors: D'Artagnan ("The Duck Stops Here"), purveyor of foie gras, Les Trois Petits Cochons (pâtés), Brooklyn's own Kino, offering lamb sausage sandwiches and a strange kombu seaweed pasta, and Les Halles with a variety of grilled meat sandwiches. Pigalle served wonderful croissants, palmiers, and tartes d'oignon.

Between Madison and 5th Avenues, I saw a giant floating Brie in the sky. Upon closer inspection, it was obviously a balloon, but I could not pass up the Président Brie baguette sandwich that it advertised. I would gladly storm any fortress for that combination of chewy baguette and creamy soft cheese!

Payard: 1032 Lexington Ave. (212) 717-5252. D’Artagnan: 1-800-DAR-TAGN. Les Trois Petits Cochons: 1-800-LES-PATES. Kino: One Main St., Brooklyn. (718) 243-9815. Les Halles: 411 Park Ave. South. (212) 679-4111. Pigalle: 790 8th Ave. (212) 489-2233.

Give Peas A Chance?

Vegetables are on my mind today. Perhaps it's because of this week's Time Magazine article on vegetarianism. Or maybe it's because I read the following in The Week:

"Eat vegetables and stay out of jail. British researchers have found that improving the diet of juvenile prisoners slashed the number of offenses they subsequently committed by more than a quarter. The greatest reduction was in violent offenses, which fell by 40 percent. Researchers at the University of Surrey studied 230 inmates between 18 and 21. 'Improved nutrition is a cheap and effective way to cut crime,' suggests lead study author Bernard Gesch."

New Yorkers have recently benefited from a great decrease in crime. Some may argue that this is due to our former mayor, Giuliani. But could it be that perhaps Urban Organic is growing in popularity? Urban Organic is a delivery service that brings fresh fruits and vegetables to your doorstep every week. Today, I started off my morning with their juicy black plums, and I'm now feeling more at peace with the world.

Are you feeling violent today? Eat a carrot!

Cheese, Glorious Cheese

According to this article, the average American ate more than 30 pounds of cheese last year! I am sure I influenced that figure with my cheese consumption alone. (I influenced my figure too!)

How does one satisfy these cravings the Salli Vates way?

Well, you could start your day in Little Italy by sampling the smoked fresh mozzarella at Alleva Dairy (188 Grand St., Little Italy. 212-226-7990). Then make your way to Ninth Avenue Cheese at Grand Central Market (212-370-4136), which offers a delightful selection of domestic and imported cheeses. Of particular interest to me one day was a Gjetost (a caramelized goat cheese from Norway with an intriguingly complex flavor). Norwegian mariners traditionally took this with them on long voyages, so you might want to bring some along on your strenuous outing today. I also fell head over heels for a Fromage D’Affinois Brie. There is a good selection of Spanish cheeses like Mahón and Cabrales, and many kinds of fresh goat cheese.

(Many are partial to Murray’s Cheese Shop in the Village. Although I appreciate the friendly and knowledgeable staff, I have found that their cheeses are not adequately sheltered from the elements, which include buzzing flies!)

Next, have lunch at Artisanal (2 Park Ave. @ E. 32 St. 212-725-8585). Don’t skip the fingerling potato, melted raclette and coarse salt appetizer. Artisanal lovingly tends to hundreds of cheeses in their specially built “cheese cave”.

You could then meet one of New York's most passionate advocates of raw milk cheese at Tuller (Note: This store was sold in 2007, now renamed Cobblestone Foods. There is still a wonderful cheese selection.) (199 Court St., Brooklyn. 718-222-1661). When I asked Robert Tuller which cheeses were made of raw milk, he answered, “Which aren’t?” I tasted a spicy Berger Plat and a raw milk Brie. I was also fascinated with a chevre with herbs and violets, but I will have to sample that on my next visit.

If you’d like to dine on cheese as a main course, you could try the richest dish known to mankind: paneer sautéed with ghee in a spicy tomato cream sauce, at Pongal (110 Lexington Ave. 212-696-9458), a vegetarian Indian restaurant. You probably won’t need to eat for another week, but why don’t you finish things off with a slice of ricotta cheesecake at Ferrara Bakery and Café (195 Grand St. 212-226-6150).

As a final note, I wanted to let you know that while I am writing this, I am munching on “Les Crêperolles de Pont-Aven, Fourrées au Roquefort”; small flaky tube-shaped crackers filled with creamy Roquefort cheese. Where did I buy them? Jacques Torres Chocolate Factory, a subject that merits its own journal entry.

A Coffee Rant

Coffee is essential to the proper functioning of most New Yorkers. Although there is a Starbucks on just about every corner, I agree with the sentiments of Dr. Ernesto “Papa Bean” Illy:

"Many Americans believe the darker you roast the coffee bean, the richer and better it is. But at a certain point, all you're producing is bitterness. It's like having a good piece of meat and cooking it too long. After a good cup of espresso your tongue should be colored. The taste should persist for 30 minutes. But if it's bad, it's torture."

During this hot summer, I have often found myself searching out a big cup of iced coffee. I was therefore highly intrigued by this shocking exposé of iced coffee price inflation!

What is the discerning coffee addict to do? One alternative is to buy one’s own beans. D'Amico Foods (718-875-5403) is a well-known Brooklyn coffee retailer with a wide selection. Illy coffee can be found at almost any New York supermarket. Also dear to my heart is the Montréal coffee paradise Cafemania. You can order a smooth Parisien blend or a spicy Moka Java Noir from their Web site. Five different grinds are available.

To make a perfect espresso or cappuccino every time, I employ the Saeco Vienna Deluxe. This amazing machine grinds, tamps, and creates a wonderful crema-topped espresso, then disposes of the coffee grounds. (If only I could get it to do my laundry!)

Time for a coffee break.

Uncle George's

There were families milling about the front entrance, but only five minutes went by before we were seated. Our eyes passed over the rows of whole chickens roasting on a rotisserie. My partner remarked on the crowded room and the plain decor, feeling that Uncle George's must be serious about good Greek food.

We were not disappointed. I began with the poikilia, an assortment of popular Greek dips: tzatziki (yogurt cucumber with a nice kick of garlic), taramosalata (carp roe), and skordalia (very garlicky mashed potato). My partner ordered a Greek salad topped with a big white block of feta and scrumptious kalamata olives.

They were out of the smelts so I ordered the baby smelts; tiny flavorful whole fish fried in a light batter. My partner ordered more conservatively but was satisfied with his tender filet of sole. Other fish on the menu include porgy, pink snapper, and red mullet. Our only gripe with Uncle George's is that no coffee is served. But we truly ate enough to say "uncle"!

Uncle George's: 33-19 Broadway, Astoria. (718) 626-0593.

Pumpkin's Organic Market

A recent visitor to this site inquired about where Salli shops for food when she's not sampling the restaurants of New York! So I am pleased to inform you of a recent discovery: Pumpkin's Organic Market. Pumpkin's, only open since May, aims to be your little piece of Vermont in Brooklyn. A wooden wheelbarrow at the entrance overflows with fresh produce. Christina, the owner, has created a homey environment in which to house her delicious organic foods.

I proceeded to load up my shopping basket with, among other things: Food For Thought Organic Jam (two flavors: Strawberry Basil and Blueberry Lavender), Vermont Pure Maple Butter Walnut Fudge (ummmmm), and spelt crackers. There is a small but tantalizing selection of Vermont cheeses, many kinds of olive oil and sea salt, Yu rice beverages in several flavors, vegan cookies, even organic lollipops. Strong organic coffee is brewed until noon.

Pumpkin's Organic Market: 13th St. & 8th Ave, Brooklyn. (718) 499-8539.